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Monday - I got into Dalton, Mass. yesterday and stayed at Tom Levardi's house.
The trail goes through town, and Tom's house is right on the trail. It is a
two-story house, and you can stay on his front porch or tent in his backyard. Tom
picked up a box at the post office on Saturday for me from my Mom. I was glad to
have it waiting for me when I got here. Mom sent me a new phone card (1,200
minutes!), some chocolate chip cookies, my monthly Backpacker magazine, some video film,
and some food. She send me tuna, salmon, and chicken that comes in those foil
packets that I mix with Lipton Noodles, and this time she sent me some ham in a foil
packet that has just come on the market. It will be great with Knorr's Instant
Cheese Potatoes.
Tom slackpacked us (Greenman, Dirty Frank, and me) about ten miles today, to Cheshire,
Mass. If you get on the trail next year and come through Dalton, stop at Tom's
house and tell him I sent you.
Tuesday - We slackpacked again today, about fifteen miles, to North Adams. We
crossed the Saddle Ball Mountain which, at 3,238 feet, is the second highest peak in Mass.
It is also the first 3,000 footer I have faced since Shenandoah National Park.
We also crossed Mt. Greylock, Massachusetts' highest peak at 3,491 feet. The trail
does not go all the way to the summit, but if you want to climb 89 steps to the top I
understand the view is fabulous. You can see the Green, Catskill, and Taconic
Mountain ranges and all the surrounding towns. Mt. Greylock was an inspiration to
such literary greats as Thoreau, Melville (Moby Dick), and Hawthorne.
Wednesday - This was supposed to be the day that Digger Dave Dave was picking me up to go
to a Boston Red Sox game, but I couldn't get in touch with him. I spent most of the
day trying and when I finally did reach him, he wasn't able to get tickets. Greenman
and Dirty Frank went on ahead, so I am relegated to hiking solo again. Today was a
zero day in which I accomplished nothing.
Thursday - It was lonely today. Raining as usual. Stopped at Sherman
Brook campsite.
Friday - Crossed the State Line into Vermont today. I am 1,583 miles from Springer
Mountain. Unbelievable!
I did 12 miles into Bennington, Vermont. I am in bad need of a bath and a shave,
and since it has been raining, all of my clothes are muddy. I also fell 3 or
4 times. I think I forgot to mention last week that I broke both of my hiking poles.
One of them broke in half on the mountain, and I almost impaled myself on it.
Scared Greenman to death. You cannot climb or descend mountains without your
poles. Remember to always carry two. It is easier on your legs and especially
knees if you use two poles going up and down mountains.
So - since I was feeling so sorry for myself, I got a room at the Autumn Inn. It
cost me $48.00 since I am by myself but this is one of those times when money isn't
everything. I had a nice hot shower, shaved, and did my laundry. Then, I had
pizza delivered to my room (might as well go all out!), watched a little TV, and slept
like a baby.
Saturday - Saw Bohdi today (remember the hiker who biked to Florida to hike and then
to Georgia to the AT). I left town about 9:00 a.m. And then guess what?
The temperature dropped rapidly to about 40 degrees. I had no long pants and no rain
suit since I shipped them home for the summer. I had no idea that it would be this
cold in the middle of August. Thank goodness I had stopped last night to do laundry,
and all my clothes are clean. I put on all three shirts and put both bandanas on my
head. I put my extra pair of socks on my hands for gloves, but my legs are
freezing.
I stopped and put up my tent - 3,748 feet up Glastenbury Mountain. I had only come
about 10 miles, but it makes no sense to stay out in the cold and just get colder. I
also do not have my sleeping bag, only my bag liner. Remember that I bought a new
ski cap and longsleeved pearl snap shirt at the mall a couple of weeks ago back in
Massachusetts. Well, I put them in my bounce box and sent it on ahead.
I also had no hot chocolate since I have been in very warm climates and didn't buy any.
But I started my stove and fixed a nice, warm meal, and then tried to get as warm
as I could. I usually travel with two big black trash bags since they fold up so
small and can be used as a pack cover, poncho, or whatever, but I had loaned one to
Greenman. I put the bottom part of my sleeping bag liner into the trash bag so my
legs would stay a little warmer. I had on two pair of socks, my shorts, three shirts
(all tee shirts), and both bandanas. I went to sleep about 8:00 p.m. and got up
about 8:00 a.m. and only slept about six hours during that time. It was soooo cold.
About 6:00 a.m., Bodhi (who was camped near me) brought his fleece liner to spread
over me, so I did get a good two hours of sleep between 6:00 and 8:00 a.m.
Sunday - Hiked 19 miles today. Not too bad during the day - the faster you
hike, the more your blood gets to running and the warmer you get. Crossed Stratton
Mountain today. The story is that it was on the slopes of Stratton Mountain that
Benton McKaye first got the idea of a long distance trail linking the high peaks of the
Appalachian Mountains. Thanks to him I am able (and all of us) to hike this
wonderful, beautiful trail.
I had no idea at the beginning of the trip, back at Springer Mountain, where the trail was
so beautiful - almost like a garden, with woods and flowers and soft pine needles for a
path - that the whole trail would be like this. It is amazing what Mr. McKaye and
the ATC has done.
I stayed at Stratton Mountain Shelter tonight. Unlike the shelters in the Southern
States, you have to pay to stay in most of the shelters up North. It cost me $5.00.
There is also no tenting at the shelter site, either. The Shelter has tables,
bunks, and a loft that is enclosed. The first floor is open.
I have noticed that everything is more expensive up North - food, motels, supplies.
So when you are on the trail, remember to have the extra money, beginning in about
New York or so.
Tomorrow, Monday, I will hike about 11 miles to the intersection of Highways 11 and 30 and
hitch a ride the 5.5 miles into Manchester Center. Then a phone call to Mom to send
my winter gear and a trip to the Outfitters to buy some long pants and some poles.
I would like to say hi to all of you out there, and especially Pat and Gary Jaquith in
Wallingford, Vt. I will tell you more about them in next week's journal.
Also, hello to Alabama Walker who has a dream of hiking the Trail some day and to Rick
Dickerson of Virginia who had triple by-pass surgery in February and still wants to live
his dream of hiking the trail.
Congratulations to my niece, Lauren Elizabeth, who is a freshman at Midlothian High School
back in Texas, and made the Pantherette Drill Team. And condolences to my niece and
Lauren's sister - Cameron (11 years) who recently had braces put on her teeth and isn't
feeling too good. And to Miss Maegan, the youngest sister, at age six and in the
first grade, who admits to chasing two particular little boys on the playground - atta
girl!
See you next week when I will be warm and toasty.